Crochet Tranquil Waves Underarm Purse
The Crochet Tranquil Waves Underarm Purse is a delightful accessory that combines practicality with charm. This handcrafted purse features a unique wave pattern that adds a touch of whimsy to any outfit. Perfect for holding your essentials, it is both stylish and functional. Whether you're running errands or enjoying a leisurely day out, this underarm purse is sure to be a versatile and eye-catching addition to your wardrobe. Its soothing color palette and intricate design make it a must-have for those who appreciate handmade craftsmanship and a touch of elegance.
Materials
One Skein of Bernat Mosaic or 209-300yds of worsted weight yarn (photo done in Optimistic colorway)
H-8 (5mm), I-9 (5.5mm), J-10 (6mm) Hook (whatever it takes to obtain gauge)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Any other accessories you would like to use, e.g. fabric lining, button closure, store bought handles
Sizing:
One Size fits most Child – Adult. It will be more like a tote on a 5yo and an underarm purse on an adult
Stitches
Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook
Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook
Foundation single crochet (fsc) – ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)*insert hook into the foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)Repeat from * until total fsc completed
Slip Stitch (slst) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook
Single crochet (sc) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2
Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) – yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, , yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2
Standing Double Crochet (standing dc)- This stitch replaces the ch3 start so you have a cleaner look on your piece (in fact, the starting stitch will almsot be undetectable)
Special Stitches
V-Stitch (V-st) – (dc, ch1, dc) in indicated stitch
2 Double Crochet V-Stitch (2dc-Vst) – (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in indicated stitch
3 Double Crochet V-Stitch (3dc-V-st) – (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in indicated stitch
V-st in 3dc-V-st – V-st in ch1 spc of indicated 3dc-V-st
3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st – (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round’s 3dc-V-st
3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st – (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round’s 2dc-V-st
Gauge:
4″ x 4″ swatch:
Stitch pattern ch15, sc second st from hook, sc in each st across [14sc ]
*Ch1, turn, sc in each st across, Rpt for a total of 16 sc rowssc = 1/4″ row height
hdc = 1/2″ row height
dc = 3/4″ row height
Pattern:
FSC 37
Round 1:
Ch1, 2sc in same fsc space, sc in each of the next 35 fsc, 5sc in the last fsc, rotate the work clockwise (counter-clockwise for lefties), sc in each of the next 35 fsc, 3sc in the same fsc you started Round 1, slst join to the first sc
[80 sc]
Round 2:
Standing dc or ch3 start,
*skp 3 sc, 3dc-V-st in next sc, skp 3 sc, dc in next sc, ch1, skp next sc, dc in next sc
Rpt from * until one sc remaining, slst to beginning dc
Round 3:
Slst around the post of the beginning dc of Round 2, standing dc (this acts as the first FPdc),
*3dc-V-st in next 3dc-V-st, FPdc in next dc, ch1, FPdc in next dc
Rpt from * until last dc, FPdc in next dc, ch1, slst join to beginning FPdc
Round 4:
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join ,
*FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in ch1 spc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
Round 5:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join ,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
Round 6:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join (Note: This is half of a 3dc-V-st),
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
Round 7:
Standing dc (Note: This is half of a V-st),
*FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in next ch1 spc, FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
Round 8:
Slst in next FPdc, FPslst around the same FPdc, Standing dc (this will give you a FPdc look at the beginning of your round),
*3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
Round 9:
FPslst around the standing dc of last round, Standing dc (this will give you the FPdc look at the beginning of the round),
*3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
Rounds 10-15:
Repeat Rounds 4-9
Round 16-20:
Repeat Rounds 4-8
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
Strap
Row 1 (RS):
Slst in the next 3 dc, slst in ch1 spc, slst in next 3 dc
Working in Round 19 (2 rounds below for stability),
sc in the last dc of the 2dc-V-st, sc in the FPdc, 2sc in ch1spc of V-st, sc first dc of next 2dc-V-st, sc in next dc of 2dc-V-st
[6sc]
Row 2 (WS):
Ch1, turn, sc in each sc across
[6sc]
Row 3 (RS) – odd # row of your choosing (RS):
Repeat Row 2
[6sc]
Join and ending to comeTo join the strap to the other side of your underarm purse…
Ch1, turn, sc in each sc across (yes, I tricked you to end on an even # row, but you do need to hook through to the RS
[6sc]
With the purse that has strap attached side facing you, fold your strap over in half – make sure there is no twist.Turn the purse and the unattached strap over.
The strap placement on this side of the purse will be identical to the side you started on – right hand side between the first two 3dc-V-st (left hand side between the first two 3dc-V-st for lefties).
Once you have the strap lined up to where it should go, roll it over onto the purse so that the RS of the strap and the RS of the purse are facing. You will hook from the inside of the bag through both the purse and the sc on the strap for this row.
Working from the inside of the purse in Round 19 (2 rounds below for stability) and through both layers,
sc in the last dc of the 2dc-V-st, sc in the FPdc, 2sc in ch1spc of V-st (insert each sc in an sc on the strap on t he second layer), sc first dc of next 2dc-V-st, sc in next dc of 2dc-V-st
[6sc]
Edging:
Rotate your work so that you are working up the side of your strap
sc in each end of strap row
When you reach where the strap and purse connects, rotate your work again so you are working into the top of Round 20
*slst in each dc of 3dc-V-st, sc in ch1 spc of 3dc-V-st, slst in next 3 dc of 3dc-V-st, skp FPdc, 2sc in ch1 spc, skp FPdc,
Rpt from * until you reach the other end of the strap, cut 6″ tail, fasten off
Turn purse over, start at the base of the unworked side of the strap RS facing
Slst attach new yarn
Repeat Edging
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